The Magic of the Rificolona: when Florence lights up with lanterns

From the 17th century to today: the September folk tradition that transforms the city into a sea of paper lanterns

If there’s one evening when Florence looks like it has stepped out of a fairy tale, it’s during the Rificolona, the traditional lantern festival that every year, on September 7th, lights up the streets and squares of the city.
Picture this: the sun has set, and suddenly hundreds of tiny lights sway in the air. They are children carrying their colorful paper lanterns, shaped like animals, flowers, spaceships, or fantastic characters… each one unique, each carrying a spark of imagination.

The history of the Rificolona

The festival dates back to the 17th century, when peasants from the countryside around Florence would come into the city for the fair on September 8th, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. They brought products to sell and, to make their way through the night, they carried makeshift lanterns, often crafted with reeds and oiled paper.
Florentines, known for their sharp wit, couldn’t resist teasing them, calling them “rificolone” – a term used to describe clumsy or awkward figures. From there, the mockery turned into a playful tradition and eventually a popular festival.

The modern festival

Today, the Rificolona is much more than a lantern parade. It’s a collective ritual: children carefully craft their creations, parents accompany them with eyes full of memories, and the squares – especially Piazza Santissima Annunziata – become a sea of flickering lights.
And then, of course, there are the pranksters armed with blowpipes and paper pellets, ready to hit other people’s lanterns (an old custom that might seem mischievous, but has always been part of the game).

Everything is accompanied by the traditional little song:
“Ona, ona, ona, how beautiful is my rificolona!

Mine is all decked out,
yours is full of lice.

And mine is prettier than my aunt’s one!”

Note: around 8:00 p.m. the streets already begin to fill up, and by 9:00 p.m. the magic is at its peak.

Why you should experience it at least once

Because the Rificolona is not just tradition: it’s a small urban enchantment. If you have children and happen to be in Florence on September 7th, it’s an unmissable event – a special gift for the whole family. And even if you don’t have kids, it’s a chance to dream again and immerse yourself in an atmosphere that blends devotion, playfulness, and wonder.